One of the two major early-Mediaeval peregrination routes across Western Europe — the other being, of course, the famous Camino de Santiago, which it predates by a few centuries and to which it is roughly perpendicular. Beginning in Canterbury (specifically, Canterbury Cathedral, seat of the Archbishop of the Church of England), at the southeastern corner of Britain near the Thames estuary, it crosses France, Switzerland, and the entirety of the Italian peninsula, passing through Rome and ending in Santa Maria di Leuca in Puglia, the southeastern end of Italy, after more than three thousand kilometers. From there pilgrims would sail across the Mediterranean to the Holy Land. Thus it connects, together with Camino de Santiago, Compostela, Canterbury, Rome, and Jerusalem, the main peregrination sites of Christianity.

Its southeastern portion in Lazio, departing from Rome, follows the ancient via Appia, the Roman regina viarum, and I had the chance to visit many places on that route during my brief stay there: Gaeta, Formia, Scauri, Minturno (and the archeological site of Minturnae), Santi Cosma e Damiano, Castelforte, and Suio (see those for more, I won't repost the pictures here), after which it crosses the Garigliano river into Campania. The entire path is demarcated by signs directing the way and, more than just the road (although that is itself an attraction), there are endless natural, cultural, and historical wonders along the way.

Maybe one day I'll go for the entire 3268 kilometers.

The Roman city of Minturnae, in the southern region of Lazio, was built in 312 B.C. on the site of the previous conquered ancient city of the same name, part of the Pentapoli Aurunca. Its location, protected by the monti Aurunci to the north, golfo di Gaeta and mar Tirreno to the southwest, and the river Liris (now called Garigliano) to the southeast, and right on via Appia, the “regina viarum” (queen of roads, the main road connecting Rome to the southern end of the peninsula), made it a strategic point for a colony.

The ruins of the Roman city can be still be visited today (that's for another post), but after the fall of the Empire and the interruption of its great aqueduct by the Goths, it was transferred to a fortified place on a nearby hill, and given the name of the old city, today called “Minturno”.

The medieval city center consists of two parallel roads encircling the hill, crossed by endless alleys (vichi) passing between and at places under the buildings, all surrounded by beautiful churches, bars and restaurants, and a medieval palace.

The modern part of the city spreads all the way to the sea and, together with the neighboring Formia and Gaeta, is still a popular summer destination on the beautiful Tyrrhenian coast, just as it was in Roman times.

This post will be different than usual. Taking photographs is forbidden inside the cappella, so these are not mine, but taken from their web site (I hope they will not sue me for the mountains of money I make with each post).

But it is impossible not to mention Cappella Sansevero, in the heart of the old city center of Napoli, right next to Basilica di San Domenico Maggiore. The pieces on display stand out even in a city that is full of spectacular art; if you like sculpture, or art in general, you probably already know at least some of them, since they are frequently listed as some of the most stunning works of all time.

The most famous of them is the piece at the center, Giuseppe Sanmartino's Cristo Velato (1753), closely followed by Antonio Corradini's Pudicizia (1752) and Francesco Queirolo's Disinganno (1754), all of which are so unbelievably vivid they barely look like statues made entirely of marble.

Many other works complete the densely-packed exposition, such as the high relief behind the main altar (Francesco Celebrano's Deposizione, 1756), but the main feature are the ten statues of the Virtues along both lateral walls, from the entrance to the altar, which include the two already mentioned; they are: Pudicizia, Disinganno, Soavità del giogo coniugale, Sincerità, Zelo della religione, Dominio di se stessi, Liberalità, Educazione, Decoro, and Amor divino.

Even if you cannot make it to Napoli to see these in person, the Cappella has a website full of high-resolution pictures and additional information, so you can do a virtual tour. And one final note: if you do decide to go there, make sure to reserve tickets in advance (which can be also done via their website), they were sold out the first time I went and I almost missed it the second time. Oh, and take the audio guide, it's very good.

The last stop of my marathon in the Gulf of Napoli. I had become so enamored of the island from watching it all the way across the Gulf of Gaeta, more than 60km away — it is located right between the two gulfs, in the area where Campi Flegrei, the huge volcanic caldera, enters the Mediterranean sea, forming Penisola flegrea and the surrounding islands — seeing its dim figure through the maritime mist, its shaded contour against the colored sky at sunset, its dark green suspended in the bright blue where both sky and sea meet on sunny days (see the other posts where it makes an appearance), that I could not leave Campania without going there.

Napoli, the Νεάπολις, and the surrounding area was the center of Magna Graecia, the Greek colonies in southern Italy, and the settlement of Ischia goes back to the 9th century B.C. as a trading post in the Mediterranean. Its archaeological museum is home to one of the earliest inscriptions in the Greek language ever found, a cup made in an Aegean island in the 8th century B.C., discovered just 70 years ago in a tomb in the island.

The trip from Napoli starts in Porta di Massa, the port at the center of the city, from which also depart boats to Capri and other destinations in and around the gulf. It takes about 90 minutes for the ferry to get there (the faster hydrofoil takes just over an hour), but that is hardly noticeable, since there isn't a single minute along the path without beautiful views of the coast, the city of Napoli, the island of Nisida, Capo di Posillipo, the island of Procida, etc., as well as those across the gulf: Vesuvius, Capri, and the Sorrento peninsula.

There was no chance I could explore the entire island (it is the largest in the region, almost 50km²), since I had only a single day to visit it, so I just decided to explore without planning much in advance (but that also just means I'll have to return =).

The day started very sunny, and the deep azure typical of the waters of the Gulf was displayed in its full glory all along the northeastern coast, from Punta San Pietro all the way to the castle. After a stop for lunch and a bus trip to the village of Fontana, the weather turned very misty as I made my way to monte Epomeo, the highest point of the island (788m) and, by the time I got to the summit, it was almost completely surrounded by clouds and the shore, just a few kilometers away, was barely visible.

Climbing down the mount straight towards the south leads to the thermal waters of Sant'Angelo, where the high sulphur content of the volcanic water springs creates a natural swimming pool spanning the entire coast. As the sun was starting to set, all I had time left for was another bus ride to the port to take the ferry back to Napoli, where the day ended with some pasta, seafood, and vino alla spina (naturally) in I Sapori di Parthenope, a great local restaurant next to the central station I had to visit a second time.

If you are obsessed with Ancient Rome as I am (as I hope you are), you knew this was coming. After the Palatine hill in Rome itself, the most famous Roman ruins which survive to this day are certainly the city of Pompeii. As its neighbor Herculaneum, it was at the time at the seaside (built on top of a layer of lava from a previous eruption), it was buried under several meters of volcanic material expelled from mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, remained lost for more than a millennium and a half until it was accidentally rediscovered, and now provides an unbelievable view into what life was like in the Roman empire two thousand years ago.

Unlike Herculaneum, which can comfortably be seen in its entirety in less than a day, it was a much bigger city, with ten to twenty thousand inhabitants and an excavated area of around 3.5km — although not as wealthy as the neighboring seaside retreat, with its abundance of exuberant villae. It has also been more thoroughly explored by archaeologists: since the layer of material which covered it was not as deep (4–6 m), it was discovered earlier, in 1592, and only ⅓ still remains buried. It was, however, much more directly hit by the destructive force of the eruption, so much less of the original structures was preserved.

Here too the excavation process continues to this day, balanced with the need to preserve the parts which have already been unearthed and suffer constant degradation by the elements and the visitors. E.g.: when I was there, a large section called “Regio IX” was closed, a few months later the excavation of a house with a large dining hall covered in frescoes was announced. A look at the news from the past few years demonstrates how these sites are a constant source of discoveries from that period in history.

And, of course, the amphitheater was where the famous Pink Floyd concert was recorded in 1972. I was pleasantly surprised to find an exhibition about it in the galleries there — and reminded of my age when I saw many “youths” pass by in absolute ignorance of what the exhibition was about.

I also could not pass the chance to visit once again the cathedral of Pompei, so here are a few bonus pictures.

At the foot of mount Vesuvius there existed, until the fated year of 79 AD, a Roman town named Herculaneum. Legend says it was founded by the Greek hero Ἡρακλῆς (Heracles, known to the Romans as Hercules) himself while returning from Iberia after one of his twelve labors, and named after him. While not as large as the nearby city of Pompeii, its position at (what was then) the seaside made it a retreat for Roman nobility including, it is believed, Julius Caesar's father-in-law, Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesonius, and its four thousand inhabitants enjoyed decent prosperity.

That, of course, changed radically with the eruption. At around 1AM heat waves of up to 400°C reached the town, traveling at 160km/h, killing those who remained instantly and burying the area under 20m of volcanic ash.

More than a millennium and a half would pass until the town was accidentally rediscovered in 1709 during the excavations for the construction of a well. Because of its position away from the wind direction in that particular day of the eruption, its destruction was much reduced compared to other places around the gulf such as Pompeii, making it unique in how well-preserved its structures are, as well as the artifacts found inside them (most of which are now on display in the museo archeologico nazionale di Napoli).

The modern Italian city of Ercolano, renamed after the ancient Roman town it was built (unknowingly) upon, is located 450m away from what is today the coast, and the ancient ruins are now 4m below sea level. Around ¾ still remain buried, as efforts have lately been focused on preserving the rapidly-deteriorating parts which have already been excavated. This is also the reason why some of these pictures are not at ideal and sometimes are even at awkward angles: many of the houses, rooms, and spaces are not accessible so they can be better preserved and renovated.

New discoveries are constantly made. A recent example was the unearthing of more than three hundred human skeletons in 1980 inside what were then the docks, revealing the last moments of those who remained and waited to be rescued by brave sailors, such as (and as is famously recounted by) Pliny the Elder.

Another recent excavation area, currently closed for the public, is Villa dei Papiri, named after the many ancient texts found in its vast library (if you ever need further evidence of the decadence of Western society — not that there is a short supply — think about how nobility in Roman times went to the seaside to read Greek texts about Epicurean philosophy). Getty Villa in Los Angeles is a reconstruction of the Herculaneum villa, illustrating how it and the other houses looked like at its prime just before the eruption.

Suio, on the border between the Italian regions of Lazio and Campania, is situated in an area rich in thermal waters, considered some of the best in Italy for the presence of iodine and therapeutical for their richness of sulphur.

Known and frequented since antiquity, it appears in the writings of Pliny the Elder (who died attempting to rescue victims of the eruption of Vesuvius). It is thought to have been part of the Pentapoli Aurunca, a group of cities which predate the Roman conquest of the region, as the “Aquae Vescinae” of the ancient city of Vescia. The Greek philosopher Plotinus was treated there and is thought to have died and be buried in the church of Santa Maria in Pensulis.

Part of the frazione is located on a steep hill where a medieval castle was built to take advantage of the view of the entire valley, from monte Orlando in Gaeta to monte Massico in Caserta, Campania.

To this day there are a number of spas on the road which follows the Garigliano river, with their constantly-flowing streams of hot water and strong sulphur smell. The sentiero pictured here crosses the valley and arrives in Campania.

After crossing via Valle di Suio, next to the road which follows the Garigliano river, in the comune of Sant'Andrea del Garigliano, almost in Frosinone, just before the end of the province of Latina, there is a magical place, hidden among the trees that surround the river margins.

A fountain of sulphur-rich mineral water springs from a large vertical rock and forms a small pool of almost-transparent azure color, which then runs to the river and joins it on its way down the valley to the gulf of Gaeta in the Tyrrhenian Sea.

You can find pictures of what it looks like in summer; in this particular bright winter day, the fountain was not running, but the icy waters, the trees without their foliage, the nubilous weather, all made for an equally fantastical spectacle.

(there are no tricks in these pictures: this is really what this place looks like — there are none in the ones I post, but especially in these they would not be necessary)

Known to the Romans as Surrentum, from Greek Συρρεντόν, meaning “a confluence”, from the verb “συρρέω”. A city protected by steep rock walls, with a single entrance where parts of the Greek walls and gate can still be seen, and by the waters of the gulf of Napoli.

I spent most of my time there (just over a day, unfortunately) walking Capo di Sorrento, and most of that in Bagni della Regina Giovanna, amazing Roman ruins from the 1st century AD, with its own natural swimming pool and port.

Last set from Capri, though I would post every single picture if I could.

These are taken over the two days I spent there, along two sentieri: one going from the famous Faraglioni up to monte Tuoro, the other crossing the entire Western coast passing through the ruins of Roman forts and rocky paths along the limestone cliffs, where dolphins and whales can be regularly seen (a pity they were too far away to get a good picture or video of them).

Faith, in one sentence.

Climbing monte Solaro in the island of Capri. The path begins in Porto di Marina Grande, right after leaving the boat. It goes up through tiny streets and stairs along the Northern portion of the town of Capri, then begins an almost vertical ascent through Scala Fenicia, a stairway built on the face of the mount in the 7th century B.C. by the Greek colonizers of the island (there are no pictures at this point because I was busy trying to survive the almost 1000 steps).

From there it proceeds less strenuously through Villa San Michele, monte Cappello, and the Eremo di Santa Maria a Cetrella, and arrives in monte Solaro after another ~45° climb. From the top, another trail climbs down to Punta Carena and Sentiero Forino (those will have to remain for another day).

Visiting this type of place in winter is great because they are almost deserted. Outside the city centers, other than the occasional “buongiorno” exchange with a few locals on the sentieri, you have the island mostly for yourself. Well, that and the group I found just after reaching the top, seen in the last couple of pictures.

It's unclear whether the name of the island comes from Greek κάπρος (kápros, “boar”) or Latin caprea (“female goat”), I present evidence for the latter. This group, the only contact with living beings I had that afternoon, was right on the trail leading down to Punta della Chiavica, but they made way as soon as I approached (not without some timid and adorable intimidation attempts from the young males).

I've been to many beautiful places in my life. But none compares, at least in terms of pure natural beauty, to this piccola isola at the Southern end of the gulf of Napoli, a few kilometers away from the Sorrento peninsula.

Capri occupies a relatively small space — it's about 6x3km in its longest spans — but there's so much in it… Beaches with extremely clear waters of the typical azure color of the gulf, mounts as high as 800m with peaks surrounded by clouds, rocky limestone cliffs sculpted by sea water, bucolic small villages, remains of Roman villae and ruins, trails through forests and hills connecting all of these, beautiful art, land and aquatic wildlife, … it truly is a wonderful place. I initially spent a day there, but had to return for another, and will certainly return more times in the future.

A warning: make sure your legs are in shape before you go. I like to think I'm reasonably fit and usually have to walk for a long, long time before getting to a point where my legs just won't go another step, but that happened more than once. The island is mostly steep ascents, and if you decide to walk (and really, why would you do anything else?), it's going to be tough. But you can see the reward you'll get here in these pictures. This is a small initial selection, much more to come later.

I was in Pompei very briefly — just a single day, on the way to and from Vesuvius. That was much less than the four years I estimate it will take me to visit its famous ruins, given that my mind lives more in the Roman empire than in whatever this “real” life is, next time I'm there.

But that was more than compensated by a visit to Pontificio Santuario della Beata Vergine del Santo Rosario, Pompei's cathedral. Its paintings, relatively recent (most from the 19th century) and recently renovated, along with its bright environment (finally some decent pictures!) are a unique opportunity to experience what the masterworks which can be seen elsewhere would have looked like when they were fresh.

Which is not to demean the art there: it is one of the most beautiful cathedrals I've visited.

Vesuvius rises 1281m on the coast of the gulf of Napoli. In 79 AD it destroyed, in one of the most catastrophic eruptions in recorded history, many surrounding Roman cities. Up to 1.5t of material were expelled per second, in clouds 33km high, releasing 100,000 times the energy of the 1945 atomic bombings. The mountains surrounding the caldera are the remnants of the original, much higher (2km) Monte Somma, destroyed by that eruption.

Pyroclastic surges, extremely hot (300°C) clouds of gas and rocks moving at more than 100m/s, annihilated buildings and victims in seconds. Other cities were buried, such as Herculaneum, covered by 23m of surge material.

Historian Tacitus relates an account by Pliny the Younger. His uncle hears his friends from Stabiae can only escape by sea and sails to their rescue. When asked, in the infernal destruction at the shore, if they should retreat, he responds with the famous Latin proverb: “fortes fortuna iuvat: Pomponianum pete”, fortune favors the brave, steer to Pomponianum. He perished while attempting the rescue. It is not recorded if his friends did. I highly recommend these two letters.

The Greek warrior Ὀδυσσεύς/Odysseús/Ulysses sails the Tyrrhenian Sea in his journey returning from the Trojan War. He passes the Italian coast by the island of the Sirens, beautiful female sea creatures who lure men to their death with their voices and music. With counsel from the goddess and sorcerer Circe, he is able to escape the enchantment, and proceeds his travels, through the underworld of ᾍδης/Hades.

One of the Sirens, Παρθενόπη/Parthenópe (παρθένος + ὄψ, “the maiden-voiced”) throws herself into the sea for being unable to enchant him, and is carried to the shore on the island of Megaride. Later, when Greek settlers of Magna Graecia founded a city there, they named it after her. This “new city”, the Νεάπολις/Neápolis as it came to be known later, would become the central axis of the Greco-Roman world.

It is much different from other Italian cities such as Roma or Milano, it takes some time to get used to. But there is enough heart-achingly beautiful art and spectacular nature (those will have to wait for another post) to make sure that happens.

Gaeta, a coastal city in the Riviera d'Ulisse, in the Southern end of Lazio, built on the tip of Torre di Orlando, a promontory formed at the feet of the Monti Aurunci. Aeneas, in Virgil's Aeneid, buries his wet-nurse, Καιήτη, in this place while sailing the Lazio, giving the city its name.

Human settlements go as far as the XII-XIII centuries B.C., first inhabited by the Aurunci, then by the Romans, when it was a common destination of emperors and the nobility, with its position on the via Appia, one of the main imperial roads, connecting Rome to Brundisium in the South. It was also a strategic location in the Risorgimento and the Second World War.

Com uma parceria inesperada para trilhas, @maiconferro_tattoo.

The equally small comune of Santi Cosma e Damiano is situated right next to Castelforte, on the same hillside overlooking the Garigliano valley and the gulf of Gaeta (but don't mix the two towns, or you'll upset the locals on both sides). There is a stony road which climbs almost to the top of the hill, the highest point in the surrounding area, the village of Ventosa and its 12th-century Romanesque watch tower, with a view of not only the valley and the vastness of the gulf, but stretching all the way to monte Cairo in the north, monti Aurunci in the west, Roccamonfina to the east, and going as far as Vesuvius and the island of Ischia in the south-east when the weather is sufficiently clear.

Having moved to a larger city now (much larger, but thankfully not without a few places like this), to this day I miss being able to retreat to one of those hilltops with just a fifteen-minute walk, away from everything and everyone (except for meeting the occasional horses, goats, or other animals along the trails), contemplating the sunrise or the sunset, or simply enjoying the winter sun and the view of mountains, rivers, seas, forests which have seen some of the largest empires on Earth come and go.

Minturnae was one of the major ancient city of the Αὔσονες/Auruncí, who inhabited the mountainous regions near the Gulf of Gaeta. It was conquered by Rome in 314 B.C and completely destroyed, but later reconstructed as a Roman settlement and frequented by the nobility, as were the other villae maritimae on the Tyrrhenian coast: Formiae, Pirae, and Cáiéta.

See the previous post for the modern (or less-ancient) parts of the city. More importantly for someone such as myself is that preserved there are the ruins of the Roman city, abandoned in the 6th century A.D. after its aqueduct was interrupted by the invading Lombards, with its capitolium, fora, temples, thermae, and theater with capacity for four thousand people.

On the road leading from the city center — called even today “via Appia” and closely following the “régína viárum” which connected Rome to Brundisium passing through the heart of the ancient city — can be seen the remains of the aqueduct which stretched 11km and brought water from the monte Aurunci to the coast.

Castelforte is a small comune in the Garigliano valley. It is where Suio (see previous post) is contained and together with it, as the name suggests, served as a protective and vigilant center for the entire valley, from the surrounding mountains down to the delta of the river in the gulf of Gaeta.

This is a region of immense beauty and I never got tired of walking around it, on its small rural roads passing through rows and rows of olive trees, or along the trails (and often outside of them) crossing the many hills and mountains there. In particular, in this period of winter, the sun rising from behind monte Massico and setting in the gulf was a spectacle I watched — as you'll see — as often as I could.

A trail up the Garigliano valley towards the oriental Aurunci mountains — an area at the border between Lazio and Campania populated since pre-Roman times due to its marble, limestone, and thermal waters — and a sunset in the gulf of Gaeta in the Tyrrhenian sea.

Βυζάντιον / Κωνσταντινούπολη / εἰς τὴν Πόλιν

Thousands of years of history, a mixture of Greek, Roman, Ottoman, Western and Eastern cultures, and marvelous places, natural and man-made.

I hope to return here someday for a longer stay.

(I can now also claim to have officially been to Asia)

While putting together the page from the last post and going through my photograph archive, I was caught yet again by these ones and put it on my list to share them, since they are some of my favorites among all the pictures I've ever taken.

The background here is last year, by some (not-so-)“simple twist of fate”, I found myself going from Istanbul to my home town in the south of Brazil. The flight schedule (these were taken around mid-afternoon local time), path, and the weather combined to offer a pretty spectacular bird's-eye view (though this bird would have to be flying very high) of the Mediterranean sea, in particular the Aegean and Ionian seas, and the areas surrounding it.

I hope Turkish Airlines enjoys the free publicity — it was a very good flight, anyway.

How can you not love a place where you can walk into a public garden and find a temple to the Greek Fates and passages from Aeneas' journey through Hades from Virgil's Aeneid?

(a bit unexpected to post again, but Italy is just a fantastic place)

Magnifica Trento, sotto le Alpi. With a few bonus photographs from Padova and Bologna.

A nubilous but spectacular walk along the Adriatic coast.

Trieste / Opicina / Prosecco / Miramare / Barcola

Always a delight to revisit the Repubblica Marinara and see how it's fared since the fall of the Byzantine Empire.

Parting with a dear old friend is always painful, but sometimes inevitable.